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ROSENBLEET'S 
PERFECT SYSTEM 



OF 



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LADIES' GARMENT 
CUTTING 



SPECIALLY DESIGNED FOR 
SELF INSTR UCTION 



BY 

JOEL ROSENBLEET 

AUTHOR OF "THE AUTOMATIC TAILOR SQUARE SYSTEM" 
PRINCIPAL OF ROSENBLEET'S COLLEGE OF GARMENT CUTTING 



LOS ANGELES 

PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR 
1911 



Copyright iqii ', by 
JOEL ROSENBLEET 









©CI.A292977 



* 



//-£^36 



\9 



Index 



Page 

Preface 4 

Introduction 5 

Instructions for taking measurements 6 

Drafting Shirt waist 8 

Shirt waist sleeve 10 

Neck-band, Stock-collar and Cuffs 12 

Tight-fitting Waist , 14 

Two-piece sleeve 16 

Semi-fitting, four-piece Coat 18 

Collars, Notch and Shawl 20 

Princess 22 

Tight-fitting Coat 22 

Six-gore skirt, panel front and back 24 

Seven-gore skirt, inverted pleat 26 

Nine-gore skirt for prominent abdomen 28 



Preface 



"DECOGNIZING the great demand for a perfect system of Ladies' Garment Cutting, 
and in response to numerous inquiries for my system in text book form (as a self- 
instructor) by those unable to attend my college, I have undertaken this publication with 
full knowledge of the fact that there were already in existence a variety of editions of 
Ladies' Garment Cutting. Some of them possess a degree of merit that would seem to 
render improvement impossible. But all of these editions, good though they are, lack one 
important feature, viz.: perfect fitting patterns. 

THE AUTHOR. 



Introduction 



r ~V0 be supreme in any vocation of human effort, one must possess a thorough, practical 
knowledge in that particular line. The system herein illustrated and explained is the 
result of the professional and practical experience of the Author, himself an expert cutter 
and designer, engaged in the Ladies' Tailoring business over twenty years. 

Hence this system is famous for drafting perfect, model-fitting patterns for every 
figure with the utmost simplicity, requiring but few measurements to obtain accurately 
all fitting points and securing perfect results. Such a work has never before been published 
in the delineation of ladies' garment cutting. 

More illustrations might easily have been given, but would only increase the size of 
the book without adding to its thoroughness, for those that are given cover every essential 
point and leave nothing to confuse or puzzle the student. A most comprehensive book for 
a beginner to study, and a positive, reliable system for the experienced cutter. 



Instructions and Directions for Taking Measurements 



Place a small cord around the base of the neck, and one at waist. Have the woman 
stand in natural position. Proceed as follows: 

From base of collar 1 to 2 is length of back. 

From 3 to 4 is the underarm. (Be very careful not to push the tape up at 3.) 

From 5 to 5 is the bust measure taken over fullest part of bust and blades, easy for 
slender and smooth for stout figures. 

From 6 to 6 is the waist measure, taken snug. 

From 7 to 7 is the hip measure taken easy, usually six inches below the waist line for 
a medium height woman. 

From 1, base of collar, toward shoulder and down to point of breast at 8 is the height 
of dart. 

From 9 to 9 is the neck measure. 

From 9 to 6 is the front length, taken smooth. 

From 10 to 10 is the arm measure. 

From 11 to 11, the wrist. 

From 12 to 13 is the elbow bend, and to wrist bone 14, the full sleeve length. 

Skirt lengths are taken to the floor. 

From 6 to 15 is the front. 

From 4 to 16 the side. 

From 2 to 17 the back. 




Figure 1 



Figure 2 



Instructions for Drafting Shirt Waist 



Diagram 1 

We will use the following measures for this draft : 

Length of Back 15 inches 

Underarm 834 

Bust 36 

Waist 24 

Neck 12% 

Front Length 1534 

Place the right angle of the square at 1 and draw a line each way. Measure down 
from 1 to 2 the back length, 15 inches for this draft. 

From 2 up to A is the underarm measure, 834 inches. Place the short arm of the 
square at A, and draw a line forward to 5, half the bust measure, 18 inches. Divide the 
distance from 5 to A in two equal parts to locate 3. B is half way from 3 to A. C is half 
way from B to 3. The distance from C to 3 is placed from 3 to D. Square up a line from 
D to E. F is the middle between D and E. Divide the neck measure in three equal 
parts. Place 34 of one part 234 inches from 1 to establish G. Square up to H % of an 
inch. Connect H and F by a straight line. Connect 1 and H by a curved line. To make 
the back wider for a shirt waist add 34 °f an inch to C and square up a line to I. J is 34 
of an inch from I. (For stout women the shoulder is usually shorter.) 

From 5 to K is 1% inches (added to make it easy across the front). 

L is half way between K and D. Square up a line from L to M, the same distance as 
A is to 1. M to N is always 134 inches for normal forms. For a high chest M to N is 

2 inches and for a hollow chest M to N is only % of an inch. (Observe the figure you are 
measuring.) Connect N and A by a straight line. N to is 34 of an inch less than H is 
to J. Curve the armhole from through F, D and 3 within 34 of an inch of the straight 
lines and up to J as represented. 

Square forward from N to P the same distance as 1 is to H. Draw a long line down 
from P through K. 

P to 9 is the same distance as N to P. Curve from N to 9. From 9 to 6 is the front 
length, 1534 inches for this draft. For a medium blouse add 2 inches from 6 to Q. Square 
down a line from 3 to 4, the underarm measure plus 34 °f an inch, 834 inches in this case. 
Connect 4 and Q by a straight line. Curve from 4 to Q to within 1% inches below the 
straight line. Connect 4 and 2. The circle is the center between 2 and 4. Take 34 of 
the waist measure which is 6 inches in this case and divide this amount in two equal parts. 
Place each part each way from the circle to establish S and R. Divide the distance from 

3 to C in half and connect with 4 and R. Connect S with 1. This outlines the back and 
front. 

Make the pattern 3 inches longer below the waist line and finish as represented. 
Cut apart on heavy lines. Pattern is net. Allow for all seams. 




Diagram 1 



10 



Instructions for Drafting Shirt Waist Sleeve 

Diagram 2 

Arm measure 14 inches 

Length 16^ " 

Draw a right angle line from A. A to B is half of the arm measure plus V/2 inches. 
Square down a long line from B. A to C is half the distance from A to B. D is half way 
between A and C. Square forward from C and D. C to E is the same distance as C to D. 
Connect E and B. Use the intersection lines at F as a pivot and circle from B to E. G to 
H is half the distance from G to C. H to I is half the distance from H to G. Square down 
a long line from I. The distance from H to I is placed from B to J. Connect J and H by 
a straight line. Curve from C through K, L, J, to I as represented. From C to M is the 
sleeve length and from I to L the same. Connect L and M by a straight line. N is half 
way between L and M. Square down from N to IV2 inches. Curve from M through 
to L. L to P is V/2 inches and M to Q the same. Draw a line down from C to Q and 
from I to L. 

Cut out on heavy lines and deduct from the bottom amount of any width cuff desired. 



— 



11 




12 



Instructions for Drafting Neck -Band, 
Stock Collar and Cuff 

Diagram 3 

Measure the neck of pattern from 1 to H and from N to 9. Place this amount from 
1 to 9 on the straight line. The width of the band is % of an inch. Curve up 34 of an 
inch from 9 and round off the corner, as represented. 

Diagram 4 

From 1 to 9 is the neck measure. Square up from 9 to A two inches, and from 1 to 2 
three inches. Divide the distance from 9 to 1 in half and from this point curve up to within 
% of an inch from 1. B is 34 of an inch from 2, and 3 is 34 of an inch from A. Connect 
3 with B by a curved line, 9 with 3 and B with 1 by straight lines. 

Diagram 5 

This cuff is drawn on square lines by placing from A to C 10 inches and adding what- 
ever width is desired above A to B and C to D, usually 2^ inches. Round off the corners, 
if desired. 



13 



NECK BAND 



"1 



Diagram 3 



IB 




Diagram 4 




Diagram 5 



14 



Instructions for Drafting the Tight - Fitting Waist 



Diagram 6 

Length of back 15 inches 

Underarm 834 

Bust 36 

Waist 24 

Height of dart 13V£ 

Neck 12% 

Length of front 1534 



Draw a right angle line from 1. Measure down from 1 to 2, the back length, 15 inches 
for this draft. From 2 up to A is the underarm measure, 834 inches. Place the short arm 
of the square at A and draw a line forward to 5, half of the bust measure, 18 inches. 
Divide the distance from 5 to A in two equal parts to locate 3. B is half way from 3 to A. 
C is half way from B to 3. The distance from 3 to D is the same as 3 to C. Square up a 
line from D to E. F is half way from D to E. Divide the neck measure in three equal 
parts, place Yi of one part from 1 to G, 234 inches in this case. G to H is % of an inch. 
Make a dot 1 inch below F and connect with H by a straight line. Connect 1 and H by 
a curved line. Draw up a line from C to I. J is 34 °f an mcn from I. (For stout women 
the shoulders are usually shorter.) 

Add from 5 to K one inch. L is half way between K and D. Square up a line from 
L to M, the same distance as A is to 1. M to N is always V/o inches for normal forms. 
For a high chest M to N is 2 inches, and for a hollow chest M to N is only % of an inch. 
(Observe the figure you are measuring.) 

18 is half way between 1 and A. 19 is half way between A and 18. Draw a line from 
N to 19. N to is 34 °f an mcn l ess than H is to J. Curve the armhole from through 
F, D and 3 inside the straight line half of an inch, and up to J as represented. 

Square down from 3 to 4 the underarm measure plus 34 °f an inch, 834> inches for this 
draft. Connect 4 and 2 and make a circle in the center between 4 and 2. Take 34 of the 
waist measure which is 6 inches in this case. Divide this amount in two equal parts, place 
each part each way from the circle, establishing R and S. T is half way between S and the 
circle. The surplus from R to 4 is divided in half, establishing X. Draw a line up from 
X to 3. U is half way from X to T. Measure the distance from X to R and divide in two 
equal parts. Place one part from T to V and the other part from U to W, thus eliminating 
all the surplus. Divide the shoulder from J to H in half and draw a slightly curved line 
down to T. Draw up a similar line from V to a little above B. Draw up a line from W 
through C to the armhole, and from the armhole down to U. 

Square forward from N to P, the same distance as 1 is to H. Draw a long line down 
from P through K. From P to 9 is the same distance as N to P. Curve from N to 9. 
From 9 to 6 is the front length, 1534 inches. Connect 6 and 4 by a straight line. Curve 
from 4 to within 2 inches of the straight line to 6. 12 is Yi inch from 6. From 12 to 13 is 



15 



P X 




fo /* 



Diagram 6 



the same distance as T to S, width of back. From 4 to 14 is \i of the waist measure. The 
surplus from 14 to 13 is divided in two equal parts. Place one part from 13 to 15. The 
distance from 15 to 16 is % of an inch less than the distance from 12 to 13. The distance 
from 12 to 13 including the distance from 15 to 16, plus the distance from 4 to 17 is }/± of 
the waist measure, 6 inches in this case. 

The distance from 1 to H plus the distance from N to 8 is the height of dart, 13 y 2 
inches. Draw a straight line from A through 8 to 49. From 8 to Y is one inch. Z is half 
way between 49 and Y. Connect 49 with 12, Z with 13 and 15. Connect Y with 16 and 17. 

Cut the pattern apart on the heavy lines and allow for all seams when cutting material. 
The inseam of the sleeve sews in M of an inch back from D. 



16 



Instructions for Drafting Two-Piece Sleeve 

Diagram 7 

Arm measure. . . . . 14 inches 

Elbow bend ly, " 

Length 16^ " 

Wrist 8V 2 " 

Draw a right angle line from A to B, half of the arm measure plus iy 2 inches, always. 
Square down a long line from B. From A to C is half the distance from A to B. D is half 
way from C to A. Square forward a line from C and D. The distance from C to D is 
placed from C to E. Draw a line from E to B. Pivot from the intersection lines at F and 
draw a half circle from B to E. Curve up from C to the circle line at K. Extend the 
circle V/% inches from B to G. X is the elbow bend, usually % of an inch less than y 2 the 
sleeve length. Measure down from C to H, the full sleeve length. Draw a left angle line 
from H to I. From H to J is half of the wrist measure. Draw a square line down from J to 
L, V/2 inches. From H to M is % °f an inch. Connect M and L for the bottom of sleeve. 
Square across from X to N. From N to is y± of an inch. Connect and G and and L 
by straight lines. From X to P is y± °f an inch. Connect C, P and M by a curved line. 
From M to S is 234 inches. From P to R is 2 inches. From C to Q is 1% inches. Connect 
Q, R and S by a curved line. T is half way from B to F. Connect T and by a straight 
line. Round the elbow at and curve a line from Q to T, as represented. 

Place a piece of paper under the draft. Trace out the undersleeve on the lines T 
through to L. Q through R to S and L, also on curved line from Q to T. Cut out top 
sleeve on heavy lines. 

Allow for all seams when cutting material. 



17 




Diagram 7 



18 

Instructions for Drafting Semi - Fitting 
Four 'Piece Coat 

Diagram 8 

Length of Back 15 inches 

Under arm ' 8J4 " 

Bust 36 

Waist 24 

Hip 40 

Height of dart 13J/£ " 

Neck 12% " 

Length of front 15% " 



Place the right angle of the square at 1 and draw a line each way. Measure down from 1 to 2, the 
back length, 15 inches for this draft. 

From 2 up to A is the underarm measure 834 inches. Place the short arm of the square at A and 
draw a line forward to 5, half of the bust measure, 18 inches. Divide the distance from 5 to A in two 
equal parts to locate 3. B is half way from 3 to A. C is half way from B to 3. 

The distance from C to 3 is placed from 3 to D. Square up a line from D to E. F is the middle 
between E and D. 

Divide the neck measure in three equal parts. Place half of one part 234 inches from 1 to establish 
G. Square up to H ^4 °f an inch. Make a dot 1 inch below F and connect with H by a straight line. 
Connect 1 and H by a curved line. Square up a line from C to I. J is 34 of an inch from I. For 
stout women the shoulder is usually shorter. Add from 5 to K one inch. Place L half way between 
K and D. Square up a line from L to M, the same distance as A is to 1. M to N is always 134 inches 
for normal forms. For a high chest M to N is 2 inches, and for a hollow chest M to N is only % of an 
inch. (Observe the figure you are measuring.) 

18 is half way between A and 1. 19 is half way between 18 and A. Connect 19 and N by a straight 
line. N to is 34 of an inch less than H is to J. Curve the armhole from through F, D and 3. 
Within J4 of an inch of the straight lines and up to J as represented. Square down from 3 to 4, the 
underarm measure, plus 34 of an inch, 834 inches for this draft. Connect 4 and 2 and make a circle in 
the center between 4 and 2. Take 34 of the waist measure (which is 6 inches in this case), and divide 
this amount in two equal parts. Place each part each way from the circle to establish S and R. 

The surplus from R to 4 is divided in half, establishing X. Draw a line up from X to 3. Half of 
the remaining surplus X to R is placed from the circle to T. 

Divide the shoulder from H to J in half and draw a slightly curved line down to T. Draw up from 
the circle to a little above B. Connect S and 1. Square forward from N to P, the same distance as 1 is 
to H. Draw a long line down from P through K. From P to 9 is 34 inch more than N to P. Curve 
from N to 9. From 9 to 6 is the front measure, 1534 inches. Connect 6 and 4 by a straight line. Curve 
from 4 to within 2 inches of the straight line to 34 inch below 6. U is 34 inch from the straight line. 
From U to V is the same distance as from S to T. The distance from U to V, plus the distance from 
4 to 10 is 34 of the waist measure, 6 inches in this case. From 10 to W is 134 inches for the semi-fitting 
front. 

The distance from 1 to H plus the distance from N to 8 is the height of dart, 1334 inches. Draw a 
line from A through 8 to 49. From 8 to Y is 34 inch . Draw a line from Y to V and Y to W. Connect 
49 and U. 

Extend the straight line from 2 to 20, 6 inches and from 4 to 21 the same, for the hip line. Draw 
a line from 20 through 21. From 20 to Z is the same distance as 2 to S. From Z to 22 is 34 inch more 
than S is to T. Draw a line from S to Z and from T to 22. 

From Z to 23 is 34 of the hip measure, 10 inches. 24 is half way between 21 and 23. The distance 
from 22 to 25 is the same as 21 to 24. Draw a line up from 24 to X and from 25 to the circle. 

Place the long arm of the square at 3 and R and draw a dotted line past 26. Draw a slightly curved 
line from 3 through 4 to 26 as represented. 27 is 6 inches below U and 34 inch from the straight line. 
Draw a curved line from 26 to 27 parallel with the line from 4 to U. 

The distance from 27 to 28 is 34 of an inch more than the distance from U to V. Connect V and 
28. The distance from 27 to 28 plus the distance from 26 to 29 is 34 of the hip measure, 10 inches. 
For a flat abdomen subtract 34 inch from 29 to 30. Connect 30 and W. 

This draft is 9 inches below the waist line. To make any length desired, proceed as follows: 

Extend the lines S-Z and T-22, the distance on the bottom line from 31 to 32 is the same as from 
Z to 25. Connect 32 with 25. The distance from 33 to 34 is the same as 22 to 24. Connect 34 with 24 




33 32 3/ 



Diagram 8 

The lines of the front are extended to correspond with the back lengths. For a double breasted front 
add 3.V2 inches from the line 9-K-49-U and 27. 12 is ^ of an inch from N. Determine the length of 
roll desired (this is always a matter of taste and style). This establishes 11. Connect 11 with 12 by a 
straight line. From 13 to 14 is the same distance as N to P. From 14 to 15 is the same distance as 
14 to 13. Connect 11 and 15 by a slight curve line and 14 and 15 by a straight line. 

To cut the pattern apart the underarm piece must be traced on a separate paper to prevent cutting 
overlap at the hip. Place a piece of drafting paper under the draft. Trace on the heavy lines from 3 
through X, past 24 to 34. From the middle shoulder through B, past the circle to 25 and 32, across the 
bottom to 34, the waist line, shoulder and armhole. Cut out on tracings (from the under paper), and 
cut the remaining pieces on the heavy lines. 

The pattern is net and seams must be allowed. 



20 



Instructions for Drafting Collars 



Notch Collar 



Diagram 9 

First measure the neck of the pattern from the crease line 13 to N, and the neck of the 
back from H to 1. We find this amount is 6 inches in this case. Place another piece of 
paper underneath the neck of pattern and extend the crease line from 13 through 12 to 16, 
the amount just measured. 

From 16 to 17 is 1 inch. From 16 to 18 is 1% inches. From 14 to 19 is always 34 to 
Yi of an inch less than the lapel from 14 to 15. 

Now draw along the edge of the pattern from 14 through 13 to within \i of an inch 
of N to 17. Connect 17 with 18 and 18 with 19. Finish as represented curving in % of an 
inch inside the straight line 18 and 19. 

Remove the pattern and cut the collar out on the heavy lines. 



Shawl Collar 

Diagram 10 

Proceed in the same manner and draft all points as explained on Diagram 9. Make a 
dot 1 inch below 15 and connect with 14. Curve from 11 through 19 to 18, according to 
shape desired. 



21 




Diagram 9 




Diagram 10 



22 

Instructions for Combination Draft 

Consisting of Tight - Fitting Princess with Two Darts 
and Tight - Fitting Coat with One Dart 

Diagram 11 

Length of back 15 inches 

Underarm 8J4 

Bust 36 

Waist , 24 

Hip 40 

Height of dart. . 13 H 

Neck 12% 

Length of front 1534 



Begin by making the foundation draft as explained on Diagram 6, page 14. This 
gives all the points which are correspondingly lettered and numbered on this diagram to 
the waist line. 

Proceed as follows on diagram 11: 

Extend the line from 2 to 20 six inches and from 4 to 21 the same. Draw a line from 
20 through 21. The distance from 2 to S is placed from 20 to Z. Draw a long line down 
from S through Z to 25, length desired. From Z to 22 is y of an inch more than S to T. 
Draw a line from T through 22 to 24 and connect 24 with 25. Place the square at C and 
W and continue the line from W to 27. From Z to 23 is 34 of the hip measure, 10 inches. 
Divide the distance from 23 to 21 in two equal parts, place one part from 27 to 28 and the 
other part from 27 to 29. Connect 29 with U and 28 with W. Measure the distance from 
22 to 23 and divide in two equal parts. Place one part from 28 to establish 30 and the 
other part from 29 to establish 26. Draw a line from 26 to V and from 30 to X. 

To extend the lines below the hip proceed as follows: 

The distance from Z to 26 is placed from 25 to 31. Connect 31 with 26. The distance 
from 22 to 29 is placed from 24 to 32. Connect 32 with 29. The distance from Z to 30 is 
placed from 25 to establish 34. Connect 34 with 30. Measure the distance from 32 to 31 
and place this amount from 34 to establish 33. Connect 33 with 28. 

Draw a dotted straight line from 3 through R to 24. Draw a slightly curved line from 
,3 through 4 to within y% of an inch of the dotted line at 48 and near the dotted line to 24, 
as represented. 38 is 6 inches below 12 and Yi °f an mcn from the straight line. Draw 
a curved line from 48 to 38, parallel with the line from 4 to 12. 

From 38 to 39 is % of an inch more than 12 to 13. From 39 to 41 is y of an inch 
more than 13 to 15. From 41 to 44 is y 2 of an inch more than 15 to 16. The distance 
from 38 to 39 including the distance from 44 to 41, plus the distance from 48 to 47 is y 
of the hip measure, less y 2 of an inch. 

Connect 47 with 17, 44 with 16, 41 with 15, 39 with 13 and 38 with 12 by straight 
lines, and continue down to correspond with back lengths. 

To Make the One Dart 

Divide the distance from 41 to 44 in two equal parts. Place one part from 39 to 45 
and the other part from 47 to 46. Divide the distance from 15 to 16 in two equal parts. 
Place one part from 13 to 37 and the other part from 17 to 36. Divide the distance from 
Y to 40 in half and curve down to 37 and to 36. 

Draw the lines from 36 through 46 and from 37 through 45 as represented. For a 
single breasted coat 2 inches is allowed for the overlap. The length of roll is regulated 
according to style. 

To cut the pattern apart, the back pieces must be traced on separate paper to prevent 
cutting overlap at the hip. Place a piece of drafting paper under the draft, and trace each 
piece separately on the heavy lines. 

Allow for all seams when cutting material. 




Diagram 11 



24 

Instructions for Drafting Six- Gore Skirt 
Panel Front and Back 

Diagram 12 

Waist 24 inches 

Hip 40 

Front length 39 

Side length ! 41 

Back length 40% " 

Place the straight edge of the drafting paper even with the edge of a large table. Let 
the paper extend above number 6 about 8 inches. From number 6 to 7 is always 6 inches 
for average height women. Even with the edge of the table, measure up from 6 to A, the 
amount of the waist and a fourth, 30 inches for this draft. 

Pin the end of the tape at A. Pivot from A and cast a sweep from 6 to 2, and from 
7toB. 

Measure on the line from 7 to B one-half of the hip measure, 20 inches for this draft. 
Measure down from 6 to 15 the front length, 39 inches. From 4 to 16, the side length, 
41 inches, and from 2 to 17, the back length, 40^ inches. Connect 15, 16 and 17 by a 
curved line as represented. 

The number of gores are always divided into the full hip measure. In this diagram 
we have a 6 gore panel front and back. The hip measure is 40 inches. 6 divided into 40 
gives Q% inches to the gore. Divide this amount in two equal parts, place one part 2>}4, 
inches from B to C, and the other part from 7 to E. From C to D is twice the amount as 
B to C. D to E is the same as C to D. Space the gores at bottom. From 15 to F is double 
the amount as 7 to E. From F to 16 is double the amount as E to D. From 16 to G is 
double the amount as D to C. G to 17 is double the amount as C to B. 

Draw a line from 17 through B to 2. From G through C to H. From 16 through 
D to 4 and from F through E to I. 

Measure the distance from 6 to 2, which is 163/2 inches for this draft. Subtract half 
of the waist measure from this amount. The difference thus obtained is 4^ inches, 
surplus to eliminate between the gores as follows: 

Place % of an inch each way from H and curve down to C. 

Place 1 inch from 4 to J and curve down to D. 1^ inches from 4 to K, and curve to 
a little below D. V 2 of an inch from I to L and curve to E, thus eliminating all the surplus. 

Curve from I to % of an inch above line at K, and Yi inch above line at J to H, as 
represented. Adjust the length by deducting from bottom of draft the amount desired. 

Number the gores and cut apart on the heavy lines. The front and back piece are 
to be cut on fold of material. 

Pattern is net. Allow for all seams everywhere. 



25 




Diagram 12 



26 

Instructions for Drafting Seven - Gore Skirt 

with Inverted Pleat 

Diagram 13 

Waist 24 inches 

Hip 42 

Front length 39 

Side length 41 

Back length 40% " 

Place the straight edge of the drafting paper even with the edge of a large table. Let 
the paper extend above number 6 about 8 inches. From number 6 to 7 is always 6 inches 
for average height women. Even with the edge of the table, measure up from 6 to A, 
the amount of the waist and a fourth, 30 inches for this draft. Pin the end of the tape at 
A. Pivot from A and cast a sweep from 6 through 2 and from 7 through B. Measure on 
the line from 7 to B, one-half of the hip measure, 21 inches for this draft. Measure down 
from 6 to 15 the front length, 39 inches. From 4 to 16 the side length, 41 inches. And 
from 2 to 17, the back length, 40^ inches. Connect 15, 16 and 17 by a curved line, as 
represented. 

The number of gores are always divided into the full hip. In this draft we have 
seven gores. The hip measure is 42 inches, seven divided into 42 gives 6 inches to the gore. 
Then from B to C is 6 inches. From C to D is 6 inches and D to E is 6 inches. From E to 
7 is 3 inches, always half the amount of the preceding gores. This being the front, when 
cut on fold of material, gives each gore the same width. 

Space the Gores at Bottom 

From 15 to F is double the amount as 7 to E. From F to G is double the amount as 
E to D. From G to H is double the amount as D to C. From H to 17 is double the 
amount as C to B. Draw a line from 17 through B to 2. From H through C to I. From 
G through D to J. From F through E to K. Measure the distance from 6 to 2, which is 
1734 inches for this draft. Subtract half of the waist measure from this amount. The 
difference thus obtained is 534 inches, surplus to eliminate between the gores as follows: 
Place 1 inch each way from I. 1 inch each way from J and % inch each way from K. 
Curve to the hip line as represented. The remaining 34 of an inch can be disposed of in 
the hip dart at J. 

For the inverted pleat add from 17 to L 8 inches and from B to M 4 inches. Draw 
a line up from L through M to N. Trace on line 2, B, 17 and fold over to line N, L. Num- 
ber the gores and cut apart on heavy lines, through C to H, through D to G, through E 
toF. 

Pattern is net. Allow for seams everywhere when cutting material. 



— 



27 




Diagram 13 



28 



Instructions for Drafting Nine - Gore Skirt 
for Prominent Abdomen 

Diagram 14 

Waist , 28 inches 

Hip 45 

Front length 39 

Side length 41 

Back length 40% " 

Place the straight edge of the drafting paper even with the edge of a large table. 
Let the paper extend above number 6 about 8 inches. 

From number 6 to 7 is always 6 inches for average height women. Even with the 
edge of the table, measure up from 6 to A, the amount of the waist and a fourth, 35 inches 
for this draft. Pin the end of the tape at A. Pivot from A and cast a sweep from 6 through 
2 and from 7 through B. Measure on the line from 7 to B one-half of the hip measure, 
22 J^2 inches for this draft. Measure down from 6 to 15, the front length, 39 inches. From 
R to I, the side length, 41 inches, and from 2 to 17, the back length, 4034 inches. 

Connect 15, I and 17 by a curved line as represented. 

The number of gores are always divided into the full hip. In this diagram we have 
nine gores. The hip measure is 45 inches. 9 divided into 45 gives 5 inches to the gore. 
Then from B to C is 5 inches. From C to D is 5 inches. From D to E is 5 inches and E to 
F is 5 inches. From F to 7 is 2^ inches, always half the amount of the preceding gores. 
This being the front, when cut on fold of material gives each gore the same width. 

Space the gores at bottom. From 15 to G is double the amount as 7 to F. From 
G to H is double the amount from F to E. From H to I is double the amount from E to D. 
From I to J is double the amount as D to C. From J to 17 is double the amount as C to B. 
Draw a line from 17 through B to 2. From J through C to K. From I through D to R. 
From H through E to S. From G through F to T. Measure the distance from 6 to 2, 
19 inches for this draft. Subtract half of the waist measure from this amount. The 
difference thus obtained is 5 inches, surplus to eliminate between the gores as follows: 

Place % of an inch each way from K, y% of an inch each way from R, % of an inch 
each way from S and y% of an inch each way from T, and curve to the hip line as represented. 

For a high abdomen and flat back curve from 1 inch above 6 to % of an inch below 2. 

Finish inverted pleat and cut gores apart as explained on diagram 13, page 26. 



29 



A 




Diagram 14 



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